A Time of Transition

Since I finished my language studies at the Instituto de Idiomas in June, I have been in a period of transition and orientation to mission work here in Cochabamba. I'm no longer living with a Bolivian family...but have moved into an apartment with a fellow missioner, Ann Kennedy. I'm learning to navigate the Bolivian system of bill paying, shopping and local public transportation...all very different from the U.S. All this "acculturation" means I am being forced to use my new Spanish language skills...at time frustrating, at times humorous, at times even bordering on reciprocal communication!

During this period of transition, I travelled with the entire group of Bolivian MKLM lay missioners (10 adults and three children) to La Paz for a week of reflection and community building. To prepare for the change in altitude in La Paz, I took a "soroche" pill before taking my flight from Cochabamba. The capital city of La Paz is literally breath-taking...at 3660 meters...it is one of the highest cities in the world. Interestingly, most of the city is carved like a bowl out of the Andes mountains and buildings cling to the sides of the canyons surrounding the city. In some ways La Paz reminded me of San Francisco with its narrow, steep streets and colonial, turn of the century architecture....but La Paz has it's very own character...a colorful mix of modern and indigenous (Amaryan) co-existing in a spectacular natural setting!

Our group of ten missioners stayed at the Maryknoll House within the city of La Paz. This timeworn home has been in the Maryknoll family for more than fifty years...serving as a base for priests and brothers who have worked and lived in the region and as a "hostel" for missioners, friends and families when they visit the city. Father Mike, who has served the region of La Paz for many years, was our host and historian. The house is large and spacious but like many Bolivian structures has no central heating. So as Cochabambinos, we all had to layer on clothing to adjust to the very cool "indoor" temperature! Nighttime temps in La Paz can dip into the 20s...so fortunately our individual rooms had space heaters and electric blankets.

Part of our community building experience included a day trip to El Alto, which is a fast growing city of immigrants "above" La Paz....yes...even higher in altitude than La Paz! So to prevent any possible recurring symptoms of altitude sickness...I took another soroche pill. Many of the new arrivals in El Alto  have immigrated from the altiplano to find work. Everywhere across the barren landscape was new construction and the faces and culture of the Amaryan people. In the past, several MKLM missioners had lived and worked in El Alto, so the group visited the sites of their missions and spoke with the Bolivians who are continuing these projects in health and education. We were warmly received by our hosts and given a very positive reflection of the lasting benefits of our cross cultural efforts.

As a group of ten we had several days of workshops on discolonization and racism, discussions about diversity and collaboration and special times of reflection and prayer. However, we were also able to treat ourselves to several outings in the city. One of the more fascinating was our visit to the "artesanal" street markets where vendedoras sell everything from dried llama fetuses for indigenous ceremonial use to intricately woven "aguayos" (blankets) made of alpaca wool. The sites, smells and sounds of the street markets were overwhelming at times...each tiny market stall was filled to overflowing with merchandise in a rainbow of colors. I couldn't resist the temptation to purchase something...so I choose a beautifully woven scarf.

Upon returning to Cochabamba...our winter weather has been so warm and beauiful that I have only worn my new scarf once on a cold morning...but my memories of my week in La Paz linger and I realize that just one visit to La Paz is not enough. Next time I hope to explore more of the city and  take excursions in the altiplano region to Lake Titicaca and the ruins at Tiwanaku. More to come....

On Top of the World

It's been some time since I last posted a blog entry. I have to admit I have been busy finishing my spanish language studies at the Maryknoll Instituto de Idiomas, and I can proudly say that I completed the "basico" course on June 9th! But I want to go back to the month of May to share an adventure I had with some other language students climbing Mt. Tunari near Cochabamba.
Mt. Tunari at 16,519 ft is the highest peak in Parque Tunari, a Bolivian national park and preserve. Areas of the park contain a protected and fragile ecosystem while other areas are populated by indigenous farmers who live in isolated pueblos growing quinoa, wheat and choclo (corn) on terraced slopes. The area has been referred to as the Nepal of Bolivia due to the similarity of terrain and jagged mountain peaks.

Along with a group of 20 language students plus a guide, I left by bus for the Parque Tunari early on a Saturday morning. I made the mistake of taking a window seat...(what was I thinking?)...so I unfortunatly had the treacherous view "below" as the bus snaked along the very narrow mountain road. Most of us had taken altitude sickness pills and were drinking "mate de coca" (tea) but I was surprised as I stepped off the bus after the 2 hour thrill ride, that the air was already very thin at @12,500 ft and my breathing was immediately very labored.
Some of the younger students decided to challenge the summit but I opted to stay with a small group only going midway to the summit. We took a path along a crystal clear "lago" (lake) sheltered by huge boulders. It was difficult climbing in the high altitude but the vistas were breathtaking.

After about an hour we stopped to rest and decided to stay at this point and eat lunch. We were joined by some grazing llamas and overhead we could see condors gliding and swooping around the snow covered peaks.The air smelled of wet earth...there was very little vegetation, only a few plants nestled in the crevices of the rocky landscape. Beneath our feet was a type of prickly moss...so we sat on our jackets!

After lunch the three children in the group played a game of parachute toss and we all took shorts catnaps before beginning our decent. As we walked slowly along the rocky path, we could feel the air turning colder and the clouds beginning to hide some of the lower peaks. The views descending were even more spectacular. Perhaps it was the time of day but the mountains just seemed to be framed in a "rosado" glow...an unforgettable image!

The hike ended as we greeted our more "athletic partners" at the bus and after a group photo...began the long bus ride back to Cochabamba. Not having had any previous experience hiking over 10,000feet, I can honestly say that it was a physical challenge, but the rewards of being at that altitude were truly amazing...the attached pictures can't do justice to this top of the world experience!

Stepping Back in Bolivian Time

Since arriving in Bolivia, I have been jolted many times by the sixth sense that I have stepped back in time. The pace of life here is so much slower...even with the arrival of the internet and Levi jeans! Perhaps it's the pensamiento that time is worth savoring and living lentamente is truly living in the moment. Perhaps it's the fusion of colonial Spanish influences and Andean cosmo-vision?

I am fortunate to have several professors at the Maryknoll language institute who have shared their knowledge about Andean culture and cosmo-vision. From them I have learned to connect my own views of ecology and spirituality more profoundly. At the center of the three circles of Andean cosmo-vision (sky, earth and world below of spirits & ancestors) is the belief that all of creation is interconnected...no one entity or part is more important than the other but rather all beings live in harmony with the earth/universe. I am sometimes saddened to think that the indigenous cultures of North America had similar visions and yet our colonial ancestors dismissed their way of life as uncivilized. Only now as we begin to face the effects of global warming and other ecological problems are we beginning to honor the wisdom of indigenous cultures. 

I continue to marvel at the age of the buildings in Boliva...many crumbling but still preserved. One of the most most noble and timeworn among these is the Convento de Santa Teresa in Cochabamba. Last week my friends and I made a visit to this gracefully decaying edificio. We were given a guided tour which lasted one hour and provided a snapshot of the extraordinary lives led by the cloistered nuns that have inhabited this convent for over two centuries. With our young guia we strolled through the peaceful cloistered patio and convent church, viewed fine altarpieces and sculptures (from Spanish and Potosí schools), and even got to ascend to the roof (via very, narrow circular steps!) for a glorious view of the city. The convent was founded in 1760, then destroyed in an earthquake. The new iglesia was too big to be domed, so the existing church was built inside its walls in 1790. A Carmelite community stills lives on the site, but its 14 nuns are now housed in more comfortable modern housing next door. As we strolled through the convent’s corridors, we all felt in touch with the history of this fascinating place.

It is my hope that one of my "lessons of life" learned in Boliva will be a deeper appreciation of the cultures of indigenous around the world and how their lives were cosmically intervoven into the lives and history of the Andean people. Is is possible that with a shared belief in our unity both past and present that WE...all peoples of the earth...could learn to live in peace and harmony?

"Carnaval" in Bolivia

Over the last week I have been experiencing "Carnaval" in Bolivia...and it's been quite an adventure into colors, customs and cuisine! The opening event was "Dia de Comadres" a wonderful day of sharing friendship among women! My friends and I were invited to attend a "girls only" celebration and had no idea how wild and racuous a party of Bolivian women can be! We were initiated into the fiesta with water...thrown at us in bucketfuls...then some of my friends were literally baptized in the homeowner's pool! We danced out in the street to the music of a local band and ate typical "carnaval comida" of meat, cabbage, potatoes and rice covered in picante sauce. Needless to say, we limped home...exhausted but happy!

My second carnaval experience was on Friday, March 4th at the Maryknoll Institute where a group of the employees and professors lead us through the custom of Ch'alla. This custom is usually done on the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, but because the Institute was to be closed for carnaval...the ritual was prepared early especially for the students. Bolivians believe that Carnaval is a time to give thanks and gratitude to "Pachamama" (Mother Earth) for the fertility of the harvest. Each home and workplace presents a blessing (ch'alla) to "Pachamama" in the form of a burned offering of sweets, herbs and vegetables. As the humble offering was carried throughout the Institute, I couldn't help but think of the catholic ritual of blessing with incense.

On Saturday, March 5th, I travelled by bus with friends to the "Carnaval" in Oruro, Bolivia to experience what UNESCO has declared is a masterpiece of oral and intangible Bolivian heritage. What a day! As I have mentioned before...bus rides along Bolivian mountain rodes can be a threat to the passenger's heart and stomach and this trip was no exception...no guardrails, no bathrooms along the route...you can use your imagination! When we arrived at Oruro we were all quickly made aware of the fact that we were at 12,500 feet above sea level...as some of us started to experience symptoms of altitude sickness...headache, light-headedness and nausea. Our guide led us through the crowds to our seats in the bleachers along the parade route, gave each of us some bottled water or beer (!) to drink and then suddenly the whole scene errupted with the sound of marching bands and the site of joyful Bolivians dancing in the street.

The dancers were all wearing intricately designed costumes...reflecting themes of indigenous Andean culture...in all colors of the rainbow. To my eyes it seemed like the earth had suddenly opened up and flowered with people...the crowds chanted "beso, beso" (kisses) as the beautiful dancing girls passed by.

The parade lasted for hours...and we took just a short break for lunch and returned to our seats only to be sprayed by cans of foam and pulmetted with balloons filled with water! Luckily our guide had given each of us a plastic pancho to cover our clothing!

Unfortunately the day had to come to an end at dusk...and luckily for me...I remember very little about the 5-hour bus ride along the dark, serpentine mountain road back to Cochabamba!

But my most memorable and fun-filled Carnaval experiences have been with my Bolivian family, yesterday and today...eating Bolivian BBQ, setting off firecrackers, listening & dancing to Bolivian music and offering the "ch'alla" to this home which has given me so much love and support over the past two months while I have adjusted to life in Bolivia. Blessings to Henry & Lily and their family.

Feliz Carnaval!

"Sensing the Bolivian culture"

Last week I had a wonderful opportunity to "live" the culture of Bolivia with all my senses! As part of the orientation program at the Maryknoll Instituto de Idiomas, I went with a group of 25 fellow students to an area near Cochabamba called Valle Alto. We travelled by bus (quite an interesting adventure in itself!) to this agricultural region about 15-20 miles south of the city. The altitude is higher than Cochabamba so we were climbing into beautiful pastoral countryside. Each small "pueblo" that we visited is famous for a particular product. Our first stop was Tarata where we visited an historic church and retreat center established by the Franciscans. Within the courtyard walls of this colonial structure was an incredible oasis of flowering plants, trees and pools of flowing water...a beautiful tribute to St.Francis! The small pueblo of Tarata was centered around a plaza that was filled with people enjoying the balmy Sunday morning. We stopped briefly to purchase freshly baked rounds of flatbread and then we were off to our next stop in Cliza...

The town of Cliza is famous for its open air Sunday "mercado" that sells everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to clothing and household products.  The merchants (vendadoras) are almost all women who display their colorful produce and products on street mats and often use a bartering practice called "trueque" where they exchanges one product for another...for example a handful of flour for six carrots! Cliza is also famous for selling roasted pigeon as a luncheon speciality...I didn't have a chance to taste it but the aroma was amazing! By the time we wound our way around the market labyrinth we were all starving...

So our next point on the tour was lunch at a popular provincial cafe in Arani. Our menu included a steaming hot "sopa" of meat, vegetables and quinoa and a beverage made of fermented corn called "chicha" that tasted a bit like hard cider (?). Our last stop of the day was in Punata, where the bus driver unfortunately had to change a tire (!) while we strolled through the plaza of this tiny pueblo known for its unique pastries called "rosquettes" that have some resemblance to pretzels but are slightly sweet and covered with a thin white icing. On our way back to Cochabamba, our tour guide convinced us to make one last stop at a roadside cafe famous for its empanadas and homemade ice cream...now how could we say no to that! All the sites, sounds, smells and flavors of that day in Valle Alto linger with me...as I write this entry. I hope I have given you all just a "taste" of Bolivia...as the Bolivians say provecho!

putting my faith into practice

My spanish language studies continue to improve and my host family continues to provide me with special attention (I feel like a guest at a Bolivian bed & breakfast!)...but, this week I finally had the opportunity to put my faith into practice here in Bolivia! On Saturday, I spent 4 hours at a very special home for infants and young children under 5 years.

This home for 150 young children and 12 other facilities for women and orphaned children are managed by "Fundacion Amanecer" (http://www.amanecer-bolivia.org/) founded by the Sisters of Charity in 1981 and now recognized by the Bolivian government as a non-profit. I was so impressed with the director of this facility...she has been with Amanecer for over 30 years and is still smiling as she greets each new volunteer!

The entire four hours at Hogar Salomon Klein was spent holding and feeding babies under 1 year...how amazing is that! Looking into the faces of each precious child was so moving and yet so bittersweet...for even though the care at this orphanage is very loving...I know that it is impossible for the staff to give enough individual attention to each infant. So just holding, speaking and giving affection to each tiny infant was a special gift of love...and believe me...the gift was reciprocal! I could not help but think of my beautiful granddaughter, Hadiatou, as I kissed the faces of the sweet infants. This "hogar" and all the other Amanecer facilities depend on volunteers to help feed, play and care for the young children and provide classroom and hands-on training to the older children. As I write this entry, my thoughts are that I can't wait to go back to the hogar next Saturday...the babies certainly didn't mind that my Spanish was just a few words and phrases spoken with much love!

Today my co-missioner, Ann, and I visited the palacious home of Bolivian tin magnate, Simon Patino. In many ways it reminded me of the Vanderbilt Estate in Asheville, because of the similar style and the opulence of the era in which it was built. Simon Patino was born into poverty in Bolivia but became one of the wealthiest men in the world due to his tin mining interests both in Bolivia and abroad. The beautifully manicured gardens of the home contain many unusual species of plants and the furnishings and decor of the home reflect the European designs of the 1920s. Unfortunately, Simon Patino never lived in the home due to his travels abroad and poor health. Today the home has been converted to an educational and cultural center. It was an interesting visit to a "lugar" of Bolivian history.

Until next time...hasta luego!

learning a new language...

After my second week in Cochabamba, I am realizing that learning a new language is a full time job! For this retired teacher...it's a whole new world to be back in Spanish 101. My classes are held each morning from 8 AM to 11:30 AM at the Instituto de Idiamos de Maryknoll, but my studies continue all day and into the evening as I listen, read and speak as much Spanish as I can! I have placed post-it notes around my room to help me learn the everyday words I use the most. My professors at the Instituto are wonderful but my host family members are also very patient teachers! As we eat meals together and share stories about our families, I try to introduce new vocabulary and they do the same. Immersion into a new language and culture is challenging but each step in the process is very rewarding. This past week I was able to use my Spanish skills to purchase something in a stationary store, read and order from a menu, take a taxi to the central city and watch the world news on TV. Just basic beginner steps...but building on these fundamentals will hopefully improve my conversational skills. I have so many questions to ask and not enough grammar or vocabulary to ask them! I carry my pocket sized Spanish/English dictionary everywhere...already the pages are showing signs of wear and tear!

On Saturday, I travelled with my fellow lay missioners to the southern zone of Cochabamba and visited several programs/places where Maryknoll priests, sisters and lay missioners work and live. Population in this southern azone has exploded in the past ten years as more Bolivians from the "campos" (mostly indigenous Quechua and Aymara families) have moved to the outskirts of the city looking for work. Many of the social and educational programs I visited, work collaboratively with other religious groups and non-profits to build sustainable growth and change with the Bolivian people. One of the most critical needs is for clean, safe drinking water...until next time...chau!

looking back at my first week in Cochabamba...

Well....it was a very eventful primera semana (first week) in Cochabamba! Early Monday morning of the 10th I awoke to severe pain in my left lower back. The pain was so intense that I had to awaken my host family and they took me immediately to the emergency hospital. I received some pain meds and the next morning I had some lab work done. On Tuesday morning I saw a kidney specialist who confirmed that I had passed a kidney stone!!! So he sent me to have a CAT scan to assist in his diagnosis and treatment. So you are probably thinking what else could happen to her? That's what I thought...until I was bitten by a dog while I was walking to meet my co-missioners for dinner Tuesday evening!!! Luckily, the bite wasn't that bad, but the attack by the dog from behind was very traumatizing. I've received lots of support from my family and the mission community and I'm on the mend...and I have had my first anti-rabies shot...but I'm also on the lookout for every dog I see on the street...and there are hundreds of stray dogs on the streets of Cochabamba! All this and I'm still enjoying everyday here in Bolivia! The climate is perfect...warm and breezy days and cool nights...and the people are so warm and friendly. Each day I attend classes from 8AM-12 noon and as I eat meals with my family we practice new phrases and vocabulary in Spanish. I know that immersion is the best methodology for learning a language...but it is so nice to speak to someone in English every once in a while! This past Saturday all of the students at the Maryknoll Language Institute went on a tour of Cochabamba. One of the most interesting places in Cochabamba is the statue of "El Christo" (The Christ) that sits atop a mountain overlooking the city. The ride to the top of the mountain in a small bus with 25 people was a little unnerving...but fun. The view from the top was amazing! The city was sprawled out before me and the mountains were all around me. It is sometimes hard to remember that I am living at 8500 feet in the Andes, as the mountain peaks don't look as high as they would if I were looking at sea level! Yesterday I watched a movie in Spanish with my host family(without English subtitles) and was very proud of myself for understanding some of the dialogue and following the rest by context. It was a very entertaining movie..."It's Complicated" with Meryl Streep, Alex Baldwin and Steve Martin. I had to explain to my family that where the story took place was not a "typical" American setting...as the family lived outside Santa Barbara, CA in a muy grande casa! My goal for this second week in Bolivia is to stay out of trouble and in good health!

Arrival in Cochabamba, Bolivia

I have arrived in Bolivia! Cochabamba is a beautiful city (east of La Paz)....altitude @8500 feet...so it is taking a little time to get used to the elevation. The climate is warm (it's summer here in the global south), the green mountains surround the city and my Bolivian host family has been so very kind and helpful to me. The first 48 hours of my journey were a little crazy! First the zipper on my large suitcase broke just before leaving for the airport, so we made a quick trip to the store and bought two smaller bags. Then at the Asheville airport I set off the security alarm and had to be "patted down" and all my articles scanned...yikes...what a hassle. I later found out in Miami that the security culprit was my silver bracelet that I didn't remove in Asheville before entering the scanner.  Then as if I had not already exhaused Murphy's Law...my luggage never made the transfer from US Air to American Airlines in Miami...so I arrived in Bolivia but my suitcases didn't!!! Good news...the luggage did arrive yesterday (Sat) and I am now settled into my lovely room looking out over the mountains and the city. My host is a pediatrician...and his wife and two adult children live in the stucco home that you enter through a courtyard filled with flowering plants. Tomorrow I begin my Spanish language classes at the Maryknoll Language Institute. I can walk the five blocks to the institute from my host's home. I am hoping that the Spanish I learned in HS and college will gradually return as I hear and speak more each day. Buenos noches from Bolivia!

The journey begins....

Today I leave Asheville for Cochabamba, Bolivia! I will meet three of my fellow MKLM missioners in Miami and we'll take the overnight flight to Bolivia...when I arrive my world will be literally turned upside down...it's summer in Bolivia! Goodbye to snow and cold weather and hello to sunshine and the majestic beauty of the Andes mtns.
I look forward to sharing my stories with you...Kathleen